Petroglyphs-Part 1

Hundreds of petroglyphs exist unprotected in various areas of Qatar. The largest cache of these perplexing images is carved in a collection of limestone mounds called jebels in the northeast corner of the country named Al-Jassasiya. Experts are fairly sure that they are old, but certainly not ancient when compared to the thousands of years since the beginning of humankind’s evolution. Best guess – 700 years give or take. Archeologist consider them modern, so modern in fact, that the carvings have only attracted casual investigation. But, they are the only legacy of a long gone transient culture.

On one of the last days of the long-run riding season, which ends in the middle of May when the temperatures in the desert become dangerous, a group of expats rode to the petroglyphs. I am not sure how many of us were actually interested in seeing the carvings as much as we were interested in hanging with friends and getting in one more ride before melting into summer when rides are limited to a few turns around the Corniche at dawn. Expat riders are a tight community where friendships are made quickly and deeply during Friday morning rides, usually the only day off for many of us, and transcend the limitations of an impermanent lifestyle where leaving can sometimes reach crisis proportions; tight friendships bonded in the desert do not slip away when a contract ends and one is forced to move on.

The majority of expat riders are hard-drinking, hard-working men working their way through middle age. Many are self-educated and in the oil/gas or construction industry. Others have jobs at one of the military bases supporting the US war effort. Occasionally, an expat may own 49% of a private company sponsored by a Qatari whom, by law, must own 51% or more of any outside businesses. On rare occasions a teacher, or a pilot, or a doctor becomes a part of the group. Most smoke. Some have families in country, but many are on single-contract status. Without exception, we are all in the country for the money. Qatar, its history, its culture, and its petroglyphs are interesting but ultimately meaningless. If it were not for the extraordinary compensation packages expats receive, most would never choose to live in a land that looks like it had the life bled out of it a million years ago. Our lives are intense; riding and partying with friends transforms life in a harsh environment into a bearable existence.